 
Sumas
Member
Username: Sumas
Post Number: 803
Registered: 01-2008
| | Posted on Saturday, March 14, 2009 - 4:15 pm: |    |
Does anyone know how to get a test for lead at a reasonable price? A friend called to ask me to do a web search. This is Detroit water which is good but the house is very old. I gave him numbers for local agencies including DWS. I found plenty of "for profit environmental firms" but the costs were very expensive. |
Douglasm
Member
Username: Douglasm
Post Number: 787
Registered: 10-2003
| | Posted on Saturday, March 14, 2009 - 10:27 pm: | |
There are a number of "at home" tests for lead. Google "water test kits lead". It will get you a couple in the $25 range. Can't vouch for their accruacy, though.
Contact a well drilling company. Water has to be certified potable before a domestic well is approved. The theory is a drilling company may have a line on either a commercial outfit or a test kit that would serve your purpose. |
Stosh
Member
Username: Stosh
Post Number: 142
Registered: 01-2009
| | Posted on Saturday, March 14, 2009 - 10:49 pm: | |
Have you checked the pipes to see if they are made of lead? Simple test would be to get a magnet and check for attraction. Check all over the house, not in one spot. By the water meter is a good place to start. It's a lot cheaper than buying a lead test kit if you don't have to.
That way, if you actually find one, at least you will know what needs to be replaces. |
Jiminnm
Member
Username: Jiminnm
Post Number: 1780
Registered: 02-2005
| | Posted on Sunday, March 15, 2009 - 5:08 pm: | |
Pipes are likely iron or steel (Stosh's magnet suggestion is excellent), but any soldering is likely lead or lead based. |
Stosh
Member
Username: Stosh
Post Number: 146
Registered: 01-2009
| | Posted on Sunday, March 15, 2009 - 5:24 pm: | |
That's true, if they were older copper pipes. Galvanized doesn't get soldered. |
Det_ard
Member
Username: Det_ard
Post Number: 48
Registered: 02-2009
| | Posted on Sunday, March 15, 2009 - 10:14 pm: | |
The supply line entering the house (going to the meter) is often lead in older homes, even if everything else is copper/galv. |
Sumas
Member
Username: Sumas
Post Number: 808
Registered: 01-2008
| | Posted on Sunday, March 15, 2009 - 10:43 pm: | |
The house is over 100 years old. What piping did they use then? |
Stosh
Member
Username: Stosh
Post Number: 153
Registered: 01-2009
| | Posted on Sunday, March 15, 2009 - 10:56 pm: | |
That doesn't mean that they haven't done renovations in the past. And from what I've read, the coating of the pipes over the years often covers up the lead considerably, if not completely. Replacing piecemeal pipes just stirs up stuff. |
Grumpyoldlady
Member
Username: Grumpyoldlady
Post Number: 380
Registered: 06-2005
| | Posted on Sunday, March 15, 2009 - 11:51 pm: | |
Contact the health department. They probably test, or know where it can be done fairly inexpensively. Might try the health departments of other cities and counties. Detroit is so messed up that who knows what you will be told. |
Mikeg
Member
Username: Mikeg
Post Number: 2266
Registered: 12-2005
| | Posted on Monday, March 16, 2009 - 12:00 am: | |
Prior to the introduction of copper water piping, the underground service line coming into the house from the street main was usually a lead pipe. After the water meter, the water lines to the fixtures were typically galvanized (zinc-coated iron) threaded pipe.
Over the years, it would be more likely that a homeowner would replace the galvanized pipes with copper pipes, while the underground lead service pipe would remain untouched. The Safe Drinking Water Act Amendments of 1986 prohibited the use of lead in the 50% tin - 50% lead solder used to connect copper water fittings. Antimony or silver has replaced the lead in all solder used since then.
Run your water faucet until the water becomes cold before using it for drinking or cooking and you will not have to worry about lead contamination. Water only picks up the lead when it sits still in a lead service pipe or pre-1986 copper water pipes. |
Sumas
Member
Username: Sumas
Post Number: 810
Registered: 01-2008
| | Posted on Monday, March 16, 2009 - 4:04 am: | |
The city replaced the lead pipe from the main last year. Now the water runs from interior pipes looking gray and unappealing.
I appreciate all advice given. My friend always comes up with requests for info on the weekends which usually frustrates me. All info people have contributed will be followed up on.
Thanks again to everyone for advice. |
Mikeg
Member
Username: Mikeg
Post Number: 2268
Registered: 12-2005
| | Posted on Monday, March 16, 2009 - 8:05 am: | |
The interior plumbing sounds like it is threaded galvanized iron pipe; after a number of years, their exterior goes from a shiny zinc color to a dull gray. To confirm that it is this kind of pipe, look for threads cut into the ends of each straight piece of pipe where it enters an elbow or other kind of fitting. Here is a short piece of new galvanized iron pipe:
Since the service line has been replaced and the interior lines are apparently galvanized iron pipe, there are no sources that can introduce lead into that home's water. Therefore, there would be no need to have the water tested. |
Gnome
Member
Username: Gnome
Post Number: 2499
Registered: 08-2007
| | Posted on Monday, March 16, 2009 - 1:02 pm: | |
Sumas, if the water is murky it could be a number of things. My first thought is to ask if the cold water is murky or is it just the hot water?
If it is the hot water, the problem might be a funkified hot water tank. Everyone should drain and flush their hot water tank once a year. To do that, shut off the supply line going to the hot water heater. Turn OFF the gas or electric feed to the h20 heater. Attach a garden hose to the bottom of the heater, run it to the floor drain and open the valve. Also open the overflow valve on the top of the heater, that will let air into the tank.
The water will come out a sickening rusty brown color and you will freaked by what you see. Especially if the tank is a couple of years old.
If it is older than 7 years, make sure your friend buys appliance insurance through their local utility company. It will fail within the year.
DON"T RUN THE HEATER WITHOUT H20 IN THE TANK.
Once it is drained, open the supply line and flush the tank until clear.
Close the bottom valve, the overflow valve and refill the tank. Then reconnect the power.
DON"T RUN THE HEATER WITHOUT H20 IN THE TANK.DON"T RUN THE HEATER WITHOUT H20 IN THE TANK.DON"T RUN THE HEATER WITHOUT H20 IN THE TANK.DON"T RUN THE HEATER WITHOUT H20 IN THE TANK.
As far as testing the water, try the Michigan State Extension Service. |